When thinking about CAGING OPTIONS for your bun consider size, safety and ease of use. 

• Make sure the rabbit can stand up to its fullest in at least a portion of the cage and has room to stretch out in every direction.
• Confirm that the door is big enough to allow an appropriately sized litter box.  Many commercial cages do not have adequate doors and will need some adjustment.
• Give the rabbit at least some solid flooring.  Buns do not have pads on their feet like cats or dogs and will develop sore hocks (basically bedsores) if left on wire.  A large litter box and a piece or two of ceramic tile can easily do the trick!  Carpet remnants are also acceptable as long as the rabbit is not eating it!
• Let the bun have a door where it can enter and exit at will during play time.
• Top-openings (or LARGE doors on cube cages) make it easy to clean the cage, and much safer for retrieving buns when they must be removed from the cage.
• Single buns should be in a cage no smaller than 30"x24", pairs in larger spaces.  The bigger the cage the better. And obviously, your larger breeds need even more space.  We can discuss specifics with you based on your rabbit interest.

(Click on any photo to see a larger version)

Click here for more cube cage photos.

Cube Cages:  We wholeheartedly recommend these homemade cages!  They are economical, can be designed to your specific location, and provide lots of room for your bun.  These cages are built with metal grids that are intended for bookcases.  The grids are 14" square and come packaged at Costco in boxes of 30 grids for $19.00 and are held together by cable ties from the local hardware store.  There is  excellent sites on the internet on building these cages (click here)   (or here). You are also welcome to visit our shelter annex by appointment and see the cube cages in action there, and we can put you in touch with some adopters who have also built these cages for their ideas.

Exercise Pens:  These are another good option for housing on the right flooring.  Over carpet you would have to cover the bottom with something waterproof in case of spills or litter box accidents, but you need to make sure it is thick enough that bun doesn't bite right  through it.  A thick tarp fully covered by washable rugs is an option.  You can see that Bailey and Baxter have a play tunnel, cardboard box for hiding an chewing, bowls and a rug to get off the tile if the buns want.  Bunny Magic recommends 30" pens.  Anything taller and it is difficult to reach over to fill bowls or pick up the bun, shorter and the buns are easily out and about.  Be warned though, two of the buns in the shelter annex just recently cleared a 42" pen.  This can cause serious injury to the rabbits (we were lucky this time)!  Those rabbits need different housing, obviously.  The benefits of the pens are:  They travel well, can go outside for supervised playtime on the deck or in the yard, and can be opened up when bun is out to block a hallway or entertainment center. We recommend you have one even if you choose a different housing!

Commercial Caging: Most commercial caging is TOO SMALL and very expensive!  There are internet sites that do offer nice housing, and a search for rabbit cages may find something that suits you. Look for top-openings in addition to the door access for the bun's use.  This helps prevent injury when you need to get the bun out!  Most of these cages will need the doors adjusted to fit the litter box!

(shown with permission of Mary Ellen Glover & Bunny Lu Adoptions, Inc. with artwork of Rita Ann Butcher)

Custom Designed Furniture: If you are handy, you are only limited by your imagination! The third picture is a gate made for a bun who has unlimited run of the guest room, but needs to be kept from the rest of the house.  A baby gate might work, but isn't this prettier?  If you do build a custom design and would like artwork, including pictures of your buns, visit  Evonne Vey's website! 

So, now you've got a cage.  Visit our adoption rabbits to find someone to fill it!

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